Thursday, March 28, 2013

Chickens and Babies: My Least and Most Favorite Things All in One Day!


Last Monday began the End of the Quarter/Easter break for Gonzaga Primary School. However, being a teacher for Standard 4, I had to go in and teach two hours each morning, Monday through Wednesday. On Monday after school, my co-worker and community mate, Beth, and I went into Dar es Salaam to mail some letters. From there, we hopped on a dala dala (public bus) to Mbezi, which is about an hour and 15 minutes from Dar, to visit a friend Beth made a few months ago named Suzy. I had never been out this way before and it was a fun adventure to see a new part of the area surrounding Dar.

When we got off the dala dala, we took two piki pikis (motorcycles) through a very windy valley of steeps hill and muddy roads. My piki piki driver could not have been more than 25 years old and spoke English pretty well. I challenged myself to speak to him in Kiswahili instead of reverting to my easier mode of English. So, with his knowledge of Kiswahili and a little bit of English, and the vice versa for me, we had a great conversation during the drive in what I like to call “Kiswahi-nglish” (kind of like Spanglish but with Kiswahili). I told him we were teachers living in Mabibo, that I was from America, and we discussed some differences between Tanzania and the States. It was a lot of fun to practice my Kiswahili and ride through this beautiful place in the mountains. There are no mountains in Mabibo and the piki piki driver laughed when I told him I liked this area where we were because it was green...unlike Mabibo which is just dirt, asphalt roads, and cement houses. Our simple, yet friendly conversation also eased my worries of zipping down hills, through mud puddles, and back up steep, steep gravel roads at a pretty fast speed (sorry, Mom).

Finally we arrived in Suzy’s village. It was quiet, nestled among the hills and valleys, very green, and full of welcoming people. Suzy greeted us just as we arrived and we walked together to her home. We sat for a while and talked about school and various other things; then after some time she asked if we wanted to visit her “mama kubwa,” which means “big mother”; in other words, her mother’s older sister. She explained that her aunt just had a baby, so obviously I was all about going to visit. I love babies! (Probably more than most things). So, we walked up a very steep gravel road and across the ridge of this beautiful mountain that overlooked several more valleys and hills sprinkled with homes and a primary school that was bustling with the sounds of children learning. It had just rained and the grey clouds were moving away from us, making room for the clean white ones and a clear blue sky. It was really beautiful and my words will never do it justice (and neither will my camera…mostly because I forgot to take it with me that day).

So, we arrived at mama kubwa’s small house, which was honestly just a single room with a bed and enough room at the foot of it to sit on a stool and cook over a small fire. On the bed, sleeping soundly under a mosquito net was the smallest baby I’ve seen since I came to Tanzania. He could not have been more than a few months old. Suzy, Beth, and I all sat on the bed and passed the peacefully slumbering baby between us. I love holding babies…until I remember how heavy they get in one’s arms after a while!

After some time, we walked back to Suzy’s house and along the way she bought Beth and I both a soda. I am telling you, Tanzanian hospitality never fails. I continue to be amazed and humbled by their generosity, patience, and kindness on a daily basis. Back at Suzy’s we ate lunch and spent some more time simply sitting together. We spoke about birthdays, teaching, living in Tanzania, going to the beach, and many other things. Then, out of nowhere, the generosity continued! Suzy gave Beth and me both a new madela (a type of dress) as a gift, simply because she wanted to do. We hadn’t done anything in the least to deserve it and it was humbling.

Then, we went to visit Suzy’s sister, who owns a duka la dawa (store of medicine) just at the bottom of the hill where Suzy lives. When we arrived, Suzy’s sister was making envelopes out of plain white computer paper which will be used to store and distribute the various medications she has in her shop. Beth and I offered to help and spent about an hour making these envelopes, using a flour and water mixture to paste them together. Suzy’s sister knew a good amount of English and had many questions about visiting and working in America. Suzy and her sister were both patient with our Kiswahili and I learned many new words from them. Including “kuogopa,” which means “to be afraid.” If you haven’t guessed already, this is where the chickens come in! We were sitting outside on the ground and a bunch of chickens, and a GIGANTIC turkey, got really, really close to me. Well, if you know me at all, you know I don’t react well to being in close proximity to birds of any kind. They began to laugh and asked me if I was afraid. “Ndiyo, sana!” was my response (“Yes, very!). Looking back on it now, I probably looked ridiculous but we all had a good laugh.

After an hour of envelope making, Beth and I said our goodbyes. We got in a bajaji (a small cart like means of transportation powered by a motorcycle) and completed the trifecta of Tanzania transportation…dala dala, piki piki, and vijaji. We rode back to the main road and rode a dala dala back to our brown, flat, concrete but lovable neighborhood of Mabibo.

 It was a great day… in spite of the chickens and especially because of the baby! Chickens and babies, that’s what we have in Tanzania…chickens and babies.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Feelin' the Love


So, it’s finally happened…I finally feel like I live in Tanzania. Last night, my host family had a celebration for their nephew who graduated. I have been to a few celebrations in my time here but this is the first time it felt like I was celebrating with family.
All celebrations, regardless of what is being celebrated….graduation, wedding, first communion, etc…follow the same basic format. It usually begins with the entrance of the person (or people) being celebrated and then there are introductions of the most important guests at the party, usually the family members of the one being celebrated. There are speeches from family and friends, the shaking of the champagne and cheers using said champagne, and the feeding of cake to important guests at the party. And of course, in between each of these parts, there is lots and lots of dancing, usually around and around in a circle. There is often always entertainment as well; last night, the entertainment was my young host sister (she’s probably 10 or 11, if I had to guess) and her friend dancing to a popular Tanzanian song. I wish I had half the moves they have! Tanzanians just know how to dance so well; they got rhythm….Gershwin would love them.
I have to talk about being fed cake...it has been on my bucket list since I came to this country to be fed cake at a celebration and now I can check it off! Usually at large parties, not everyone gets the opportunity to be fed cake but because last night was a smaller party, everyone was able to be fed. My other host sister, who is 18, helped cut the cake into small squares. Then the graduate we were celebrating had the job of feeding each person their small square using a toothpick. Cake and the act of feeding it to the guests is a huge part of this culture. All major celebrations have a cake; it’s a big deal. And I don’t mind that one bit!

After all of the planned parts of the celebration, there was, of course, more dancing. I like to dance but by Tanzanian standards I’m not very good! Haha. There is one popular dance here that is much like the line dance we do in the States. So, I figured, “hey, this can’t be too hard. I already know the basic sequence of these steps.” Well, here’s the thing, in this country they step on the first and third beat, instead of the second and fourth, like we are used to at home. I must have looked like a fool. But Tanzanians don’t care if you can’t do it; they are just happy when you try. It is a great feeling and makes trying new things in this context a lot easier. It was so much fun; I really think last night was the best experience I have had so far in this country.
If you told me when I was staying with my host family in December that three months later I would be dancing in their dining room and have my first cake feeding experience there, I probably would have said, “yeah right.” But the thing is, once you’re a part of a community here, you’re a part of it forever, or at least that’s the impression I get. Mama calls all of the Jesuit Volunteers her children and she really does love and care for us as if we were her own. It’s an incredibly humbling feeling to have a woman you have only known for three months tell you that you are part of her family.
Not to mention, their niece is incredible. She was visiting from a place called Mwanza when I had my host stay in the beginning of December. She and I clicked really quickly for whatever reason (probably because her English is great) and I was sad when I left my home stay, thinking that I would not see her again for a while. But in January, we went over to the Nandi’s for dinner and she was the first person I saw! It was the first time I felt like someone was really genuinely happy to see me since I got here. Of course, everyone is friendly and always welcoming, but to have someone be happy that it was specifically you to walk through the door is a really amazing feeling. And the same thing happened last night; the moment we got to the house she was beaming and greeted me with much enthusiasm. Luckily, she is now staying with my host family as she begins university in Dar next month. I cannot wait to develop this friendship and spend more time with my entire Tanzanian family.
There are a lot of challenging parts of being in Tanzania, adjusting to a new culture and way of life is tough. But community and family is not something that has been lacking by any means during my time here. Last night is the most comfortable I have felt so far in this experience; it really was like I was among family. Unconditional hospitality is the norm and is highly valued. I am so incredibly thankful for this aspect of Tanzanian culture.