The best way I know how to describe the experience of riding
a dala dala, the public bus, is the well-known phrase “packed in like a can of
sardines.” I’ve heard that phrase a number of times and can now safely say I really
know what it feels like to be crammed into a space too small for even a few tiny
fish. My first few times on a dala dala I felt like Bambi still trying to find
her legs but I like to think that now I am pretty skilled at it; I can distinguish
the various stops the konda (conductor) calls every few minutes which used to
sound more like ‘supercalifragilisticexpialidocious’ than anything during my
first months in country, I can look out the window and identify the various
stops before the konda even calls them, I know that when he jingles a fistful
of gold coins in my direction he is asking for the 400 shilling fare, I can
determine with one quick glance which dalas are truly packed to the gills and
which ones I may be able to squeeze myself onto without risk of falling out as
it races over bumps and around cars, and most importantly, I know how to
arrange myself in such a way that allows at least five more people to squeeze onto
the already over packed dala. After all of the twisting and turning and holding
myself up in less than comfortable positions I have done in the last six
months, I think I may have a promising
career as a contortionist one day.
Some days it is easy to get on a dala and be comfortable,
maybe even find a seat in the first ten minutes of the ride but today that was
not the case. Today I truly felt like I was a part of a school of fish crowded
into a metal box without any room to breathe. Most days I am not carrying
anything, except for maybe a shoulder bag which really isn’t a burden. But
today, I happened to be coming back from doing a bit of food shopping for my
community. So now, not only was I on the most crowded bus ever but I was also
down a hand usually used for bracing myself. I was carrying a grocery bag that
must have weighed at least 4 pounds. Maybe that doesn’t seem like a lot but
when you are being jostled to and fro on a fast moving vehicle inches from the
open door, I might as well have been carrying a 50 pound anvil. For the first
few minutes of the journey, I was about five inches away from the edge of the
step off the dala, the only thing separating me from the fast moving concrete
under us….one swerve too many and I would be rolling in the street as the dala
dala continued to zoom away. Luckily, as I was beginning to think I couldn’t hold
on any longer, we reached the most popular stop along our route, Ubungo, where
the coach bus station is located. Many of my fellow riders got off here and I
was able to move into the aisle, a more stable spot to stand and much further
away from the open door. With each stop we made, more people got off and I slowly
got pushed back even further in the aisle. I breathed a sigh of relief, telling
myself I was going to make it home in one piece after all. Then, as it happens
at least once a day, I got my dose of Tanzanian generosity. As I tried to keep holding on with only one
hand, a trick I am still trying to master, a Tanzanian woman not much older
than myself tapped me on the arm. When I looked down at her, she simply offered
her lap as a safe haven for the bag I was desperately clinging to as the
circulation drained from my fingers. Breathing an even deeper sigh of relief, I
handed my bag to the kind woman, and grabbed the bar above my head with both
hands this time; from that point forward, the ride was a piece of cake until we
reached my stop. I took my bag, thanked the generous woman for her help, and
pushed and shoved my way off the dala in the same fashion as when I boarded it.
As I reflect on today’s journey, I realize what an
appropriate metaphor it is for this experience. In the beginning, I was unsure
I could do it; I feared not being able to hold on, that I would never truly be
comfortable in the situation, and was sure I would fall within the first few
minutes. But as time passed and I become accustomed to my new surroundings, I
began to breathe more easily. By the end, I was confident and knew that it was
all going to work out just fine, with a little bit of help from a few nice
people along the way. So, as I dive deeper into this adventure (and practice
riding dala dalas one handedly), I will remember today’s dala dala ride fondly,
reminding myself that if I just hold on the best I can, I will make it out on
the other side in one piece, a stronger version of myself.